PVC drain pipe installation skills: practical ways to avoid common water leakage problems

PVC drainage pipes are the "main force" of home improvement hydropower renovation and tooling drainage systems due to their corrosion resistance and high cost performance. But many people encounter water leakage problems after installation. In fact, most of the hidden dangers are hidden in "the details are not done properly" - today I will talk to you about a few installation tips that can avoid water leakage from the source, and beginners can follow them. First of all, you must do a good job of pretreatment of pipes and accessories. When choosing pipes, touch the pipe wall to ensure that there are no cracks, depressions or uneven wall thickness; accessories (such as elbows and tee) should also check whether the threads and interfaces are flat. When cutting pipes, you must use a special PVC pipe cutter, not a hacksaw - the cut out is rough, and the sealing layer will be scratched when inserting the pipe fittings. After cutting, remember to use sandpaper to smooth the incision burrs, otherwise the pipe will get stuck and cause the interface to be lax. Next is the "core details" of the interface connection. Many people apply glue only to the end of the pipe. In fact, the inner wall of the pipe should also be evenly applied with a layer of special PVC glue - the end of the pipe and the pipe should be wiped clean of dust and oil (with a dry cloth or alcohol), and then apply glue. When applying, it should be "thin and uniform", and do not pile too much (otherwise it will corrode the pipe if it spills). After painting, quickly insert the end of the pipe into the pipe. After inserting it to the bottom, gently rotate it 15 degrees to let the glue fully fit, and then press and hold it for 1-2 minutes without moving - this step is the key to prevent the interface from being "virtual". If you move it in a hurry, it will definitely leak Then there is the slope setting, which is the "invisible killer" that many people ignore. If the horizontal pipe does not have a slope, the sewage will accumulate in the pipe, and if it corrodes the pipe wall for a long time, it will also loosen the interface. Generally, the slope of the PVC horizontal pipe should be maintained by 0.5% -1% (for example, the 1-meter pipe should be lowered by 5-10 mm). When installing, use a horizontal ruler to measure: for example, put a small brick at one end of the horizontal pipe, and see that the bubbles of the horizontal ruler are just off the "downhill" direction, which means that the slope is enough. The vertical pipe should also be measured with a wire hammer. If it is crooked, the interface will be unevenly stressed and leak sooner or later. The pipe cannot be fixed "casually nailed". Install a pipe clip every 1 meter for the riser, and one every 0.5 meters for the horizontal pipe - the fixed point should be next to the interface (for example, there must be a pipe clip within 30 cm on both sides of the interface), otherwise the water impact will shake the interface loose. The pipe clip should be nailed to the cement layer or keel of the wall, not on the gypsum board, otherwise it will fall off after a long time. Finally, be sure to do a water closure test. Block all the drains, add water to the pipe (the water level should not exceed the highest drain), and let it stand for 24 hours. If the water level does not drop, it means that there is no problem; if it does, quickly check the interface and pipe card for water seepage - such as whether there is a watermark at the interface, whether there are any traces of moisture near the pipe card, find the leak and re-apply glue or reinforce the pipe card. In addition, measure the drainage speed: turn on the faucet and let the water flow continuously for 10 minutes to see if there is any water in the pipeline. If the water accumulates in the pipe and does not go down, it means that the slope is not enough and has to be adjusted. In fact, the difficulty of installing PVC drainage pipes is not "technical", but "careful" - if these details are done in place, the problem of water leakage will basically not come to the door. Don't be too troublesome when a novice installs, check every step: Is the incision flat? Is the glue fully coated? Is the slope enough? Is the pipe card fixed firmly? Has the acceptance been done? It doesn't matter if it is slower, it is better than smashing the wall to repair the leakage later.